A tractor raised a red dust cloud which caught in the morning breeze, forming a miniature whirlwind which could be seen for miles, spiraling across the distant tree-lined horizon, while nearby the more traditional oxen-drawn wooden ploughs were used to till the fertile soil.

Driving through a rolling landscape, ascending and descending the gentle hills in the heat of the midday sun, through the Rastafari town of Shashamene with its giant murals of the conquering Lion of Judah, and its cultural museum, my final destination was to be Lake Hawassa.

The distant volcanoes which helped create this serene landscape still produce enough heat to keep the water in the lake fresh and pollution free, as well as fuelling the nearby hot springs which draw crowds of visitors from far and wide, some coming to relax, others to enjoy the health benefits, and even to cook fresh fish.

Lakeside Hawassa offers something for everyone. From the casual visitor on their way north to Addis stopping off for a brief respite before hitting the capital city, to students taking a well-earned break from their work to enjoy a long weekend near the shore, or tourists having a meal beneath the giant fig trees keenly observing the abundance of nature contained in this oasis.

Guereza and Grivet monkeys were frolicking in the trees, some trying to snatch a morsel from the sea eagles who shared their lofty abodes, even on occasion trying to grab a piece of bread from the tourists dining tables near the waters edge.

The stately “priests”, large black and white monkeys with their black skullcaps, observe all the commotion of the cheeky baboons with a seemingly regal air.

In fact there is scarcely a better place for nature lovers to relax than lakeshore Hawassa, with its giant storks, pelicans and sea eagles all competing with the local fishermen for the lions’ share of the abundant marine life.

An early morning stroll along the lakeshore will reward the first time visitor with a magnificent sunrise, and a dawn chorus to rival any classical symphony, with hundreds of bird species singing in unison.

Colorful kingfishers, black and white egrets, cormorants and pygmy geese abound in the lake, with perches being valiantly defended in the early hours as the birds stretch their wings, taking energy from the morning sun before skimming along the water and diving deep into the lake in search of breakfast, while large monitor lizards also search the reeds along the shore for a morning meal.

 A relaxing few hours can be spent on the lake itself in a rowboat, piloted by fit students from nearby Hawassa University, to the sound of the oars gently slapping the water. Further along toward the eastern shore can be seen families of hippopotamuses.

Rowing on the lake allows a closer view of the giant mammals who appear unfazed by this more traditional approach as motorized boats often send them diving for cover, agitated by the noise of the throbbing engines.

Indeed the number of these Hippo families present on Lake Hawassa rival that of any Kenyan rift valley lake, although care must be taken not to get too close to the large male who keeps a watchful eye on his community lest he be disturbed.

A wooden rowboat is surely no match for a four-ton hippopotamus!

The lake provides a good supply of fish, with three species dominating the menus throughout the city restaurants and also providing sustenance for those lucky enough to have the patience, skill and balance to catch them, as they navigate the waters with a fishing rod in one hand and a long pole in the other, pushing their way along through the reeds.

The boats used by the local fishermen are made from densely packed reeds, forming a structure that hasn’t changed much since the time of Moses, and have much in common with those found on northern Lake Tana.

Conversations carry across the water, eliminating the need for mobile phones, with discussions ensuing regarding the types and numbers of fish caught today, the location of the hippos, and of course the arrangement of later meetings to drink talla, tell jokes,  and discuss the day’s events, come sundown.

All along the shore people come to swim, to wash themselves, and to do laundry, amid sharing coffee and raw fish with passers-by who wander into their welcoming encampments.

Farther to the East is the construction of a soon to be finished five star hotel belonging to the legendary Haile Gebrselassie, in a beautiful location, practically guaranteeing views of the hippos and beautiful sunsets.

Prominent on the horizon is the loaf shaped Mount Tabor with its covering of eucalyptus trees, and in the week before Fasika come many people to pray and seek guidance on the holy mountaintop, with bibles read and psalms quoted, and an air of deep spirituality which is reflected on the golden domes of the Kiddus Gabriel church visible below on the city skyline. The interior of this magnificent structure contains modern masterpieces akin to the beauty of those church paintings produced by the famous artist Afwork Tekle, and depict scenes from the Bible in vibrant colors, with each painting describing a thousand words.

Walking down the steep mountain to the lake shore reveals a few hidden surprises, such as a Bahai retreat centre, farms with cattle and sheep, many beehives, a fishmarket, and densely wooded shores with ancient fig trees, passion fruits and bananas growing abundantly.

Sustainable fishing means that the supply remains plentiful, and a water treatment station is operated close to the nearby University with its many students from countries such as France, Kenya, Germany and Brazil, always keen to discuss the environmental aspects and the beauty of their nearby lake and its surrounding wildlife.

A short ride in a gari, a horse-drawn carriage, brings you to downtown Hawassa, a centre of activity with businessmen, students and farmers all going about their daily activities. There is a relaxed atmosphere in this place with its many cafes, bars and decent restaurants, including some very hip and trendy places to enjoy a beer or a macchiato.

Rooftop venues offer the perfect spot to enjoy the panoramic views of the city, its lake with a backdrop of volcanoes, and nearby Tabor mountain, as well as catch up on the latest mix of Azmari beats, hip hop, and reggae, while mingling with a cool and trendy crowd that would not seem out of place in cosmopolitan cities such as New York or London.

The sun sets quickly, not before revealing a palette of colors behind the mountains to the Western shore, which any artist would be proud to capture.

Groups of hyenas can be seen on the quieter roads leading to the lake, scavenging for food, to the sonic backdrop of croaking bull frogs and crickets.

Night time Hawassa, away from the bright city lights, affords magnificent views of the numerous constellations visible from the Horn of Africa, and is truly an astronomer’s paradise.

For anyone in need of a welcome break from Addis, in search of a change of scenery, peace and quiet, or just wanting a little time out from a busy schedule, few places come as highly recommended as Hawassa to kick back, relax, and enjoy the welcoming  ambient atmosphere in this Oasis of Tranquility.